Hoi An, the second chapter

The weather is working against some and for others in Hoi An. Sun barely pierces the thinning clouds that don't have the vigor to discolor the blue sky. Its low season, the weather being partially responsible, so the streets, rather than filled with tourists, are filled with desperate motodop drivers. This unfortunate aspect of traveling doesn't touch us, we who stroll on trampolines, smiling genuinely. Julie, Jon and I find Hoi AN delightful. This may be chalked up to the innate European-ness of the place, with its drooping bougainvillea and moss coted yellow buildings, or perhaps its the nightly street flooding along the river, young boys crouching under plain and rainbow umbrellas along the street of streams. The breeze pushed gently against the swaying Chinese lanterns hung from the dark, carved wooden storefronts. Even the specialties of Hoi An are charming; white roses, shrimp wrapped in rice paper topped with chopped peanuts. Though Hoi An is decidedly a tourist town, you can still bypass the snooty French-Vietnamese restaurants and step aside package tourists swathed in smart zip-off shorts and take a seat at a beer- oi joint. Beer-oi is a preservative free "fresh" beer that is dirt-cheap, proven by its effective hangovers. Unesco-world heritage site guarded, the old town retains its old world edge. The boats have slender eyes painted across the bow (or is that stern?) and remind me of a book i used to read when I was a mere wee-one, the name of which escapes me now. Mom? Its a quiet town, tuk-tuk drivers nap in the covered seats reserved for clients, oblivious to our needs of a lift. The town is designed for those seeking tailored suits and expensive cooking classes, and even the budget travelers seem to absorb into the dark alleys rather than loud bars. Culinary accomplishments in Hoi An extend to our preferred food stands. The tiring pho bo (beef noodle soup) features refreshing accompaniments and we are finally able to find our much sought after spring rolls.